Walking through Rioja

 Walking out of Logroño on the Camino trail, to Santiago, you become surrounded very quickly with lines of Tempranillo vines, doing their magic and making Rioja Tinto. 

Walking to Nájera, a walk of some eight hours, much of the journey was in the company of vines. Macabre and Graciano grapes were also being grown. These are blended to make the much overlooked white Rioja.

Fountain Of Life

Leaving the beautiful town of Estella, with its busy flea market and crowded square, we continued west towards  Los Argos. 

Our group had purchased local chorizo, cheese, tomatoes and bread. Well on their way to a magical treat. I allude to the wine fountain. Discussed in hushed whispers, nobody tells you where it is, just take an extra container.

When we reached Bodegas Irach, fellow pilgrims began to twitch. Enclosed in a gated courtyard, was a metal plate, set in the wall. Attached to this plate were two taps, one advocating water, the other the elixir of life. 

Not believing, I cupped my hands under the tap to take a gulp. A fresh and clean wine on tap. Filling a water bottle, I made our provisions for a picnic, sitting on a hay bale in a field. Fantastic.

Napoleon’s crossing to Navarra

 Starting early, our party walked through the old town of Saint Jean Pied du Port, and began the climb pretty quickly. The weather and conditions were good, so we decided to follow Napoleon’s path way. It was the Path Napoleon army took, to catch the Spanish of guard and take Spain. There was little break from the continual climb. The path changed from gravel, grass, slate and clay. One section had deep mulch, a kindness to the feet, that had now travelled 25km. 

After 7 hours our journey was done, we came to a monastery at Roncesvalles and beds for the night.

Seeking tapas and wine, we found a place on site. The Sommelier recommended the wines from Navarra region we were in. 

The white was a fresh straw coloured offering, young but very drinkable. Perfect with the selection of Tapas. A fellow pilgrim joined us, who we had met on our way to the summit. Mike was a friendly American, with a twinkle in his eye. Very good company, and now with four on the trail, the white was dispatched quickly, so we moved onto the red. 

The red was youthful again. Very reminiscent of some of the northern Rhone wines, I used to drink. Earthy, with great red berries and a gentle follow through. 

Saint Jean Pied du Port in style

The night before we started the Camino, we found a beautiful restaurant serving local duck breast. Our waiter recommends a cheeky red, “Mignaberry” from the appellation Irouleguy.

On our train journey from Bayonnes to Saint Jean, we had passed multiple vineyards, nestling in the hills that eventually become the Pyrenees. These vines would have made this wine.

The wine is filled with dry fruits, tobacco and red berries. It was made in 2019 and could do with a little more aging. It is reminiscent of quality Lebanese wines, with that fig notes. 

It went perfectly with the duck breast and made quiet a start to the walk.