Camino del Baztan : Part four Venta San Blas

 The hotel provided, what Booking.com calls "a good breakfast". We took our time getting back on the trail. Yesterday had taken its toll, and on every Camino, it is important to look after your feet. Bandaging, taping or just applying vaseline.

The trail to Almandoz, was fairly straight forward, and we got there in time for morning coffee. However the next 2.8km was to see a 500m climb, which was very noticeable.

Civilisation seemed to slip away, as we took paths that didn't look like they had been walked for weeks.

Spurred on by the thought that this was a shorter walking day, it didn't feel as long before we reached our hostel, which was pearched by the side of a road. With nothing around it for miles, it was comforting to be welcomed by Zife and Carlos, our hosts for the night.

Zife has some strict rules for her guests, asking probing questions about the possibility of food in my pack, and if I had more than one pair of shoes, so I could leave my boots outside. Pack were not tolerated in the bar, and everywhere must be kept clean. It was like staying with your grandmother.

However the room was great, and the location was so quiet, a siesta would be a welcome break from walking. Dinner was at 8.00pm, however Zife was a great cook.

I suspect that Carlos shot the rabbit, that was in my stew. But, this far from civilisation, I guess that is how things work.

Carlos was proud to have both kinds of wine: red and white, one of each.

They both came chilled and were local-ish, as far as one can be, at the top of a mountain, with a clear three miles to the nearest habitat.

Surprisingly the wine was very good, complementing the rabbit perfectly. Bodegas Valcarlos is located in Los Arcos, not far from Pamplona and the Rioja region. It is made with the predominantly Tempranillo grapes, with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon. The Crianza, is a Spanish wine term, used to classify wine that has undergone aging in oak barrels. The Tempranillo grape gives the wine its garnet or cherry red colour. Still young, from 2021, the clear edge is now a rose colour. The nose is one of ripe red fruits, vanilla and toast. The latter coming from the oak aging.

The taste is one of plums, forest fruits, leather and a gentle mill of black pepper. And I agree with the chilling.

In the restaurant, a sinister sign hung on the wall. I was not sure if there were political overtones, especially being in the heart of the Basque region and with no internet, it was only later on that I found out, it was just a sign for a bag repair shop. Silly me!

I would highly recommend this establishment, despite the rules, it was a perfect stop. The hosts were helpful and kind, and didn't let language be a barrier, to making us feel welcome.

Definitely try the rabbit, you will be shot away!