Camino del Baztan: Part one Bayonne

The Camino del Baztan, is still an obscure route, starting in France, then over the Pyrenees, and on to Pamplona, where it joins up with the Camino Frances. It was a popular route in the 12th Century, with pilgrims arriving in Bayonne, by boat. Hence the route is known as the Jacobean Camino.

It is championed by Gerald Kelly in his excellent guides, but unfortunately this beautiful yet challenging Camino has fallen out of fashion.

Arriving in Bayonne in the late afternoon, we headed to the Refuge de St Jacques, to pick up the all important "Credencial del Camino", a passport that you get stamped along the way, to prove you have made the walk. Walking down to the river Nive, we came across a square, full of small restaurants.

Restaurant Taloka, promised to serve Basque cuisine, so we stopped there. The first dish was Betikoa, a sausage dish with flat breads.

Next was Venison and pickles and so it carried on. The wine was called Hiruzta, and came from a Bodega, across the border, on the Spanish coast. Txakoli is the name given to this wine, produced in the Basque region. It is made with a native grape, called Hondarrabi Zuri, only found here.

A young wine (2025), with a clear rim and pale straw in colour.

The nose is one of lemon zest and golden delicious apples. The citrus notes extend to grapefruit notes too.

On the palate, the wine was crisp and refreshing, reminding me of certain Alsace wines. The lemons come through, along with a slate crispness. 

Perfect for people watching, as they mill about the square. We stayed, and watched the lights come on along the river, excited to be starting another Camino.