Fortified with pan con tomate for breaksast, a Catalan tapa, made with fresh choppped tomatoes, Spanish olive oil and toasted bread. We set out on our Camino, to reach the highest point. I had planned a stupidly long track today, that was over forty kilometres long. Too far, I hear you say, especially as you are walking in the heat, on undulated terrain.
I say planned, but there was little option to commute the walk and stay at another hotel. There was just nothing. We were walking through an area, with no accommodation or catering to hand.
Juan Ramon has written a fantastic blog about the very same trail, but also validating the lack of hospitality. Our end goal today, was Pamplona and the interim goal was to get to Olague, where a bus came by twice a day.
The bus would take us to Pamplona, if we missed it, I don't know what other option there was.
So the night before, I worked out landmarks and timings, to make sure we were on track.
Our first landmark, was the refuge of St James, which we needed to reach before 9.30am, and despite getting lost in the forrest, where we lost sight of the yellow arrows and had no mobile signal, we were ahead of schedule. Walking along the ridge , you are overwhelmed by the shear beauty of the place and the constant cowbells, ringing around the necks of cattle and horses. Almost melodic.
From the refuge we made out way through the ferns, and down towards Monasterio de Santa Maria de Belate. Now populated by bats, the monastery has a hospital opposite, set up to help pilgrims, from as early as the 12th century, now defunct.
The small hamlet of Lantz was our next marker, and still on time, we pushed on to Olague. It was now 38 degrees, and walking on open roads, yet our journeys end was in sight. Despite the bus being late, it was with huge relief that we entered Pamplona. Our hotel was not far from the main square "Plaza del Castillo", and was in the same building above the hostel I stayed at, some three years ago, walking the French Camino.
Showered and refreshed, the first place to go is a bar within a bar, at Cafe Iruna.
This was a favourite haunt of Ernest Hemingway, and a great place for a Camino Cocktail. The receptacles, that these cocktails are served in, are questionable, but fun.
Leaving the square, there are a maze of lanes, that take you to different parts of the city. We quickly found a restaurant serving Pinxos, a Navarran cuisine, akin to tapas. One of the dishes is Tortilla, a potato and egg dish, considered a staple for both breakfast and dinner. This is served in cafes across Spain, however the more West you get, the more viscous it becomes.
To wash it down, we had a bottle of Menade, an organic wine made from Verdejo grapes. The wine comes from the Leon region, which is not local to where we are now, but it is still on the Camino trail. The vineyard sticks out in my memory, as they pride themselves on harvesting the grapes at night, for optimum freshness. Pale straw in colour, the nose is peachy, with hints of fennel and thyme. The taste is one peach, with a lemon zesty-ness, and a herbal edge. Crisp and balanced, it can handle all the Pinxos you can throw at it.
Opposite is an incredible ice-cream shop, that is a must , for any trip to Pamplona. Then it is only a small walk back to the square, to enjoy your scopes, sit, and watch the lively city of Pamplona. Buen Camino
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